Café culture, galleries galore and eco shops: Where to eat, sightsee and explore in Berlin, Germany’s gorgeous capital - Toronto Star

“Europe’s nightlife capital,” “a hub for international creativity,” “a city of culture with a troubled history,” “poor but sexy.” Berlin has been called all these things, but what comes to my mind first are the gorgeous neighbourhoods, lively food scene and easygoing vibe.

I’ve lived in Berlin on and off since I was 10, and I’ve seen it change from walled city to a symbol of freedom, from architectural experiment to multicultural metropolis. My advice: don’t limit yourself to the landmarks; experience the areas where Berliners live, check out the forests and parks, and take in the city’s café culture on Savignyplatz or Kollwitzplatz. Here are a few of the places I love.

For a Berlin breakfast: Café im Literaturhaus (Fasanenstrasse 23, Berlin)

Just down the road from the Ku’damm, Berlin’s busiest shopping mile, this old-school, Central European-style coffee house is a favourite among writers and literature lovers, who come before one of the readings held upstairs –– or simply to finish a book. Stop by for a Berlin breakfast, such as soft-boiled eggs in a glass, huge slices of cake, good ol’ bread with butter and marmalade, or yogurt with fruit and muesli. Or come a little later to order a platter of French cheeses, delivered daily from the popular Maître Philippe & Filles store, accompanied by a glass of white wine.

For art in an architectural gem: Neue Nationalgalerie (Potsdamer Str. 50, Berlin)

When it was first built, in 1960s West Berlin, locals criticized Nationalgalerie for looking too plain, yet architect Mies van der Rohe’s modernist building has become a Berlin landmark. Featuring the works of many American artists, the gallery also focuses on German painting from the turbulent years between 1900 and 1945, making a visit a great way to learn about this historic period. After lengthy renovations, the museum has just reopened in all its original splendour; current exhibitions include a retrospective on Alexander Calder, on until Feb. 2022.

For an urban biergarten: BRLO Gleisdreieck (Schöneberger Str. 16, Berlin)

Situated in the urban park of Gleisdreieck in Kreuzberg, with a large biergarten, BRLO brews small-batch craft beers and serves them with aptly prepared food pairings. The chef’s current focus is on vegetables, which can be savoured fermented, smoked, cooked in a salt crust, dehydrated or even accompanied by side dishes of meat and cheese, always with the aim of exalting the beer flavours. The vibe is innovative and young, and the indoor area, fashioned from prefab containers, makes for a unique space with an industrial feel.

For the picture shows: the area around the Zoologischer Garten station

In recent years, this neighbourhood has become a great place for a DIY photography tour. Start at the Museum für Fotografie, right behind the station, to see historic Berlin images and the entire Helmut Newton collection, donated to the city by the photographer’s wife. Across the street is C/O Berlin Foundation, a photography exhibition space inside the circa-1950s Amerika Haus building. A few blocks south, the two-storey Camera Work shows (and sells) vintage pics from artists like Diane Arbus, David Yarrow and more. The gallery store alone, stocked with great photo books, is reason enough to stop by.

For ethical shopping: Prenzlauer Berg (around U-Bahn Eberswalder Str.)

Berlin visitors usually rush to see Museum Island and Brandenburg Gate, but there’s no better way to get a feel for the city than to walk around Prenzlauer Berg, with its ornate, turn-of-the-century buildings and trendy boutiques. Formerly a part of East Berlin, the neighbourhood was colonized by students and artists as soon as the Wall came down, and has become a symbol of the new, ecoconscious Berlin. Check out Flagshipstore for locally made ethical fashion, Wertvoll for fair-trade clothing and accessories, or Wunderwerk for urban wear by sustainable designers. On Sundays, don’t miss the Arkonaplatz flea market, with its famous stands selling upcycled letters, taken down from old shop signs and turned into great lamps.

Travellers are reminded to check on public health restrictions that could affect their plans.

Adblock test (Why?)

Café culture, galleries galore and eco shops: Where to eat, sightsee and explore in Berlin, Germany’s gorgeous capital - Toronto Star
Read More