Take a big bite out of Antwerp: Where to eat, shop and explore in Belgium’s cool second city - Toronto Star

As the unofficial capital of Flanders, the Dutch-speaking part of Belgium, Antwerp has been an important cultural hub since the start of the Baroque period. Located on the River Scheldt, about 45 kilometres north of Brussels, the cosmopolitan city has a village atmosphere and charmed me from the moment I stepped off the train at the majestic Antwerpen-Centraal station this fall.

Explore Antwerp’s historic heart with a cone of fries, visit one of Europe’s oldest zoos or second-largest seaport, stroll the shops along bustling Meir, and get lost on one of its medieval streets. For fashion inspiration, browse the flagships of the Antwerp Six’s Dries van Noten and Ann Demeulemeester, then check out the freshly renovated MoMu Fashion Museum. Bonus: Almost everything is accessible on foot or bike.

For a deep dive into history: Legends Tours (meets at Grote Markt square, Antwerp)

Meander past picturesque 16th-century buildings and narrow, cobbled side streets with passionate guides like Peter Deprez as they share a synopsis of Antwerp’s rich and complicated history. Going from the beautiful Renaissance City Hall in Grote Markt to the still-unfinished, Gothic-steepled Cathedral of Our Lady (started in 1352), you might even pass through Vlaeykensgang alley, a hidden preserved gateway to the Middle Ages, once home to the city’s poorest.

For a taste of what’s cool: De Koninck Antwerp City Brewery (Mechelsesteenweg 291, Antwerp)

Come to this brewery for a behind-the-scenes peek at beer production, including their iconic amber Bolleke beer; stay for De Koninck’s culinary complex. Opened in 2015, it’s home to world-renowned chocolatier Jitsk, cheese affineur Van Tricht and the inventive cocktails at Atelier Paul Morel’s studio. Head upstairs to the Michelin-starred Butcher’s Son or barbecue-inspired Black Smoke, or underground to 1833, a beer-based speakeasy. For something truly special, stop into De Laet & Van Haver’s Butcher’s Store for the umami-packed, cured Rubia Gallega meat known as Secreto 07.

For high-level gastronomy: Hertog Jan at Botanic Antwerp (Lange Gasthuisstraat 45, Antwerp)

In a city known for extraordinary dining — Antwerp hosted the awards for the 2021 World’s 50 Best Restaurants — one highly anticipated opening is Hertog Jan, the three Michelin-starred restaurant that closed in 2018. Resurrected in the new five-star Botanic Sanctuary hotel, it serves only 22 diners on each of the 10 nights it’s open each month. Although spendy (€345, or about $495, for 10-plus courses), the Japanese-influenced menu draws from the best seasonal, regional ingredients to create ethereal dishes, like a vanilla oil-potato foam dusted with coffee and mimolette cheese. The latter, a signature creation, is served with a silky, slow-cooked cod in pil-pil sauce.

For the celebrated art: Rubenshuis, or Rubens House (Wapper 9-11, Antwerp)

The former residence of Sir Peter Paul Rubens is now a museum dedicated to the works of the master painter and his contemporaries. Wander through the impressive studio, where many of his commissioned pieces were created, including those his students, assistants and collaborators helped him produce. The palatial townhouse also contains architectural elements by Rubens himself, featuring a recently restored Italian palazzo-style portico and a sweeping garden pavilion that has been respectfully preserved (it was one of the winners at the 2020 European Heritage Awards).

For a bean-to-bar experience: Pierre Marcolini (Schrijnwerkersstraat 25, Antwerp)

After a visit to Antwerp’s Chocolate Nation, the world’s largest Belgian chocolate museum, you might be inspired to pop into every artisanal chocolate shop in the city. If you time your visit to Pierre Marcolini properly, you’ll witness the production of Grand Cru bars, made only at the multiple-award-winning chocolatier’s Antwerp atelier-boutique. In the open-concept workshop, see how beans from Peru, Cuba and even China are roasted, ground, crushed, conched and tempered before being moulded into small-batch bars.

Travellers are reminded to check on public health restrictions that could affect their plans.

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Take a big bite out of Antwerp: Where to eat, shop and explore in Belgium’s cool second city - Toronto Star
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