Retro-cool in the California desert: What to eat, drink and do in Palm Springs - Toronto.com

When driving to Palm Springs, you’ll know you’re almost there when you’re greeted by a crowd of windmills that look as though they’re waving you in. Soon, you’ll be cruising down sunny streets lined with palm trees, punctuated with mid-century buildings that exude as much charm as they did in the Rat Pack days.

I first visited Palm Springs for my sister’s wedding at Twin Palms, Frank Sinatra’s estate. He was among the many stars who started flocking to the area in the mid-century, drenching it in Hollywood glitz — but that’s hardly the only allure of the desert town. Today, Palm Springs continues to attract architecture buffs for its sleek and simple modernist designs that complement the landscape.

On your next visit here, you’ll want to check off the essentials — have a date shake, go on a celebrity home tour, lounge poolside under a striped umbrella — but to truly appreciate the city, explore these treasures, too.

For a lesson in mid-century art and design: Palm Springs Architecture and Design Center (300 S. Palm Canyon Dr.)

After meandering through the three-storey Palm Springs Art Museum, don’t miss the museum’s Architecture and Design Center, located just down the street in an architectural gem, of course. The classic mid-century space was designed by E. Stewart Williams (who also designed the Twin Palms) in 1961, when it was a bank. Today, it’s home to rotating exhibitions that celebrate artists whose work features the clean lines, geometric patterns and unabashed use of colour the city is known for.

For the buzziest restaurant right now: Bar Cecil (1555 S. Palm Canyon Dr.)

Bar Cecil, which opened in April 2021, continues to be booked up weeks in advance — but it’s clear why. Named after fashion photographer, painter and interior designer Cecil Beaton, the restaurant reflects its namesake’s love for creating visual excitement through a jewelry-box interior and cosy plant-covered patio. The menu is American bistro-French fusion, featuring roasted chicken (the most popular main), bread rolls with date and sage butter, and pavlova with raspberries and Chantilly.

For late-night sips: Melvyn’s (200 W. Ramon Rd.)

Hidden behind a wall of lush bushes and inside the historic Ingleside Inn, there’s the restaurant and bar Melvyn’s — a favourite among Hollywood stars in the ’50s. Here, you’ll want to do like Elizabeth Taylor and have a drink in the piano lounge. Walk past the gleaming bar towards the purple lights at the back, and take a seat beside the piano. Order a martini, and make a song request to the pianist-vocalist (think more “Come Fly With Me” than “Watermelon Sugar”).

For dressing the part: The Frippery (664 N. Palm Canyon Dr.)

If you want to blend in with the locals, you’ll need to pull out your brightest, airiest, most ’70s-inspired pieces. If you don’t have anything quite right (or even if you do) you’ll want to check out the Frippery to get an authentic retro piece. Choose one of the vintage resort dresses sourced from local estates, or select a piece from the owner’s caftan line, O’pell, made primarily from vintage fabrics. After you slip it on, all that’s left to do is choose a lounge chair by the pool and do your best to recreate your own Slim Aarons photo.

For a journey through history (and spectacular views): Tahquitz Canyon

After marvelling at the city’s mountainous backdrop, you may be inspired to get up close and personal. Head here to the base of the peaks, just a five-minute drive from downtown. Take a self-guided or ranger-led hike to learn about Palm Springs’ native plants and how the Agua Caliente Band of Cahuilla Indians used them for food and medicine. After hiking for about an hour, you’ll reach Tahquitz Falls, a 60-foot waterfall (but note: water only flows from around February to April, which makes it all the more special if you catch it).

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Retro-cool in the California desert: What to eat, drink and do in Palm Springs - Toronto.com
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